Could be input shaft bearing, main drive bearing counter shaft bearing??? This could mean a neglected car which has not seen frequent oil changes. But of course this would need a physical examination. Can any of you tell me if you have had similar experience with your w trannys and what was the diagnosis and what was the cost involved? I am a bit worried because the owner informed me that he replaced the tranny from a donor car? Or there could be other issues lurking under?
Proudly powered by E2E Networks. User Name. New Topics. Mark Forums Read. I had to do it with pliers, a cloth, and lubricant. It's amazing how smooth and tight the shifter now feels! I installed a new drain plug sealing ring on the torque converter and installed it in the transmission.
I then pushed the black plastic retaining pin in place to keep the torque converter from falling out. I lifted up the car higher in the air and slid the transmission under the car. I then lowered the car back to where it was. I tried several times to get the transmission on me so I could push it up into place but it was too difficult.
I couldn't even get it onto the jack to lift it up. I took drastic measures and got a really big jack and lifted up the car by the crossmember behind the engine oil pan with a wood block to support it.
It was tight! There was almost not enough room to slide the transmission under the car while on top of the jack, but I was able to tilt the transmission enough for it to slide under. I don't know if I was supposed to, but I greased the shaft that sticks out of the middle of the torque converter. I had the front of the car so high in the air that I thought I crushed my muffler! The trunk pan was resting on it but luckily it didn't even dent it.
I was able to raise up the transmission to the engine but it was very wobbly on the jack and I felt uneasy.
It took a lot of effort to keep if from falling off. I had to be very delicate to get the bolts started. Once I had the bolts started I had to lift up the transmission to raise the engine to obtain clearance to access the torque converter bolts.
The torque converter has to slide into the 3 notches in the flywheel for the transmission to seat against the engine and for the bolt holes to line up. I installed the transmission with the torque converter drain plug pointing down and the bump on the timing marks near the pulley pointer so that finding the drain plug is easy.
I think this position is marked on the flex plate with white paint. The white paint on the flex plate indicates on which side the drain plug should be facing. Even though I started removing the transmission on Friday, I wasn't finished on Sunday, so I took Monday off from work in hopes that I would finish then. When Monday ended I had the driveshaft and transmission mount connected, the exhaust hooked back up, and the shift linkage and control pressure rod attached.
I work on an Air Force Base where I have to have a special pass for my vehicle, so on Tuesday I borrowed my roommate's station wagon and bicycle, drove the station wagon near the base and parked it, then rode the bicycle onto base to get to work. When I got back I started working on the transmission cooler lines. I cleaned the outsides with biodiesel, rinsed, then blew out the insides with brake cleaner and then compressed air.
I covered the ends with plastic bags held on with rubber bands to keep out dirt. There are rubber spacers on the clamps that hold the lines in place. When the spacers fall out they allow the lines to vibrate and wear through. Eventually it will cause leaks. Spots that are nearly worn through can be filled with a metal repair putty. After snaking the lines through I realized that they didn't fit. They appeared to have been bent out of shape at one time and were only put in place with force.
It ended up taking all afternoon and evening to bend the lines to the correct shape. It was a very tedious process of trial-and-error. When I got them to fit I realized I had no idea where the clamps mounted because they were missing and I was using spares.
It was obvious that there are two that attach on the bellhousing and I figured out that the left side one attaches to the oil pan, but I don't know where the other clamps are supposed to attach.
I searched the internet and my factory service manuals for hours looking for pictures of where they attach, but I couldn't see any pictures of that area. I decided to skip over this part for now. Since I still didn't have the car done I drove the station wagon and rode the bicycle to work on Wednesday. When I got home I attached the new Contitech cooler hoses onto the lines.
The new ones are nice because they have a spring around them to keep them from kinking. I then moved on to installing the dipstick tube, but it was bent out of shape and it took almost the entire afternoon and evening to get to the correct shape. Then I cleaned the inside with brake cleaner and blew out with compressed air. I made sure the dipstick was clean and put it in the tube and installed it.
Then I found out that the threads for the dipstick tube bolt in the intake manifold were stripped out! Or maybe it was just the bolt There was enough grab to install it, just not to get it tight. Having cleaned all fitting surfaces with fine sandpaper and installing new aluminum sealing rings, I decided I would add one quart of fluid to the transmission to see if I had any leaks.
I then lowered the car, reconnected the throttle linkage, attached the pressure control rod, and installed the air cleaner. I started the engine but I noticed that the fuel, temperature gauges, turn signals, and brake lights weren't working. I checked the fuse box and saw that the number 4 fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew again. I looked all over the engine compartment looking for something I may have disconnected or installed improperly.
I knew that the transmission wires were all in the correct spot. I thought that maybe I had used too much dielectric grease on the neutral safety switch.
It was about 10 PM, so I cleaned up and went to sleep, disappointed that I was so close but now had an electrical problem. I had the same transportation arrangements on Thursday.
When I got home from work I disconnected all of the transmission wiring and replaced the number 4 fuse. My gauges, turn signals, and brake lights were working. I then connected the neutral safety switch. That didn't blow the fuse. Then I attached what I think is the reverse light switch. That didn't blow the fuse, either.
Then when I attached the kickdown solenoid it blew the fuse! I checked to see if the wire was grounding on anything, but it wasn't. I took the gear selector out of park and it still blew the fuse. I figured that the solenoid itself must be bad since the plastic cover was cracked and water must have gotten in there when I was washing the transmission.
I was a bit upset since I feared transmission fluid would come gushing out if I changed it and I didn't have any new sealing rings for installing it. I removed the solenoid from the original transmission which I knew to work and then removed the one from the replacement transmission. I had to use an adjustable wrench using very small turns to get at it. When the switch came out fluid ran out so I had to plug it with the solenoid screw.
Can you chop the B pillars flush and move the seat belt pivot? From the manual car there is a pigtail wire that takes the place of the NSS. Its plugs right in so you don't have to be creative to get the back up lights to work.
I've drunk drove this thang. Its pretty fun to drive. Terrible to sit in the back seat on the freeway after being parked under an oak tree for a year.
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